ELLE chats to Nigerian-born Lisa Folawiyo, the designer behind global
womenswear label Jewel by Lisa – a fashion house that has ramped the
runways in New York, Paris, Milan, Florence, London and South Africa.
1. What inspires Jewel by Lisa?
Jewel by Lisa is inspired by the desire to narrate homegrown stories
brought to life through luxurious modern design and innovative prints. I
started out with local Ankara fabric because I felt drawn to it. At the
start of Jewel by Lisa, there was an importation ban on fabrics into
Nigeria, so we were forced to look inward. The Ankara fabric represented
something that was ‘local’ in nature, that is, a fabric that was worn
quite commonly and not held in any prestige. But my desire was to make
it luxurious. The use of modern embellishment on the Ankara fabric was
something that had never been done before and it became an instant
phenomenon.
The brand has now evolved from the use of the local Ankara fabric
into the designing of what we like to call ‘custom-narrated’ prints;
essentially narrating our stories through print. Our desire is that
women from Lagos to Tokyo to New York, London and Paris find joy in
wearing Jewel by Lisa as garments that stand on their own alongside
other notable designers around the world, yet still have the ‘je ne sais
quoi’ of being made in Africa.
2. Why did you move from law to fashion?
Fashion design found me! It was a very natural transition. After
having fulfilled my parents’ dream (and mine to a certain extent) of
becoming a lawyer, I naturally gravitated to what held my heart the most
– fashion. I love it more and more with every passing moment despite
how stressful it sometimes proves to be.
I am constantly learning, exploring, discovering, developing and
mastering new skills and expertise. I am much more fulfilled now.
3. What has been the biggest hurdle in your career?
As a designer you are faced with hurdles every day but the joy is
that with every hurdle, there comes a breakthrough. Trying to work
within proper timelines with the production capacity available can be
quite challenging, but somehow we always seem to get it done.
4. How do you stay contemporary given the brand’s traditional Ankara roots?
As traditional as our Ankara roots are, so are our contemporary,
modern roots. Our brand ethos is embedded in modernity. From day one,
our goal was to use the Ankara fabric in the most modern, fashion
forward way. It also helps that I design what I love, what I would wear,
what I desire my muses to wear, and these usually fall in line with my
own personal aesthetic which is clean and effortless. We strive to be
known for beautifully crafted storied prints that speak to women around
the world; local handcrafted luxury made global.
5. What are your thoughts on cultural appropriation in the fashion industry?
I believe that fashion inspires many things. As long as we are alive,
we are inspired by what surrounds us the world over. Cultural
appropriations are natural and key to varied and fascinating
collections. I just believe that the proper credit should be given at
all times.
6. What has been the highlight of you career?
At the completion and showing of every collection, I am on a natural
high. That feeling is irreplaceable. To also be recognised and awarded
with accolades definitely fuels your passion. Receiving the AFI Best
Designer of the Year Award 2011 and being listed in the Women
Inspiration and Enterprise 2013 power list in “Fashion and
Entertainment” are two of my greatest accomplishments.
7. What garment are you most proud of?
That’s a tough question! I love and am extremely proud of every
single collection I show. That said I am more endeared to certain
pieces. I adore all cocktail dresses, shift dresses and shirt dresses
from every collection.
8. Any celebrities wearing your pieces?
The most recent celebrity to wear one of our pieces was Thandie
Newton. We now have a great and evolving relationship with her that
hopefully will lead to more successful collaborations.
9. Tell us about your latest collection – anything in particular to watch out for?
The collection was inspired by Lagos city landscapes, in particular
Makoko, a popular Lagos city slum, located on water and built on stilts.
Through print and design, the collection examines the idea of luxury
and power, high and low, rich and poor and mirrors this through a a
woman on stilts. This season it’s about power, resilience, and strength.
It’s about the Jewel by Lisa woman standing firm albeit with femininity
and charm. Thus the clothes represent a darkness that is empowering but
play on soft florals in light hues. The silhouettes, bold and
exaggerated, reflect this toughness.
10. Any tips for emerging African fashion designers?
Stay true to what you believe in. Study and perfect your craft. Don’t
stop learning. Design pieces that speak your passions and narrate your
stories. Understand that Africa is a true gold mine – search it
thoroughly and you will find many mysteries but don’t forget that your
many stories only find success when they are relatable.
