Monday 19 August 2013

ELLE MAGAZINE CHATS WITH JEWEL BY LISA

ELLE chats to Nigerian-born Lisa Folawiyo, the designer behind global womenswear label Jewel by Lisa – a fashion house that has ramped the runways in New York, Paris, Milan, Florence, London and South Africa.



1. What inspires Jewel by Lisa? 

Jewel by Lisa is inspired by the desire to narrate homegrown stories brought to life through luxurious modern design and innovative prints. I started out with local Ankara fabric because I felt drawn to it. At the start of Jewel by Lisa, there was an importation ban on fabrics into Nigeria, so we were forced to look inward. The Ankara fabric represented something that was ‘local’ in nature, that is, a fabric that was worn quite commonly and not held in any prestige. But my desire was to make it luxurious. The use of modern embellishment on the Ankara fabric was something that had never been done before and it became an instant phenomenon.

The brand has now evolved from the use of the local Ankara fabric into the designing of what we like to call ‘custom-narrated’ prints; essentially narrating our stories through print. Our desire is that women from Lagos to Tokyo to New York, London and Paris find joy in wearing Jewel by Lisa as garments that stand on their own alongside other notable designers around the world, yet still have the ‘je ne sais quoi’ of being made in Africa.

2. Why did you move from law to fashion?
Fashion design found me! It was a very natural transition. After having fulfilled my parents’ dream (and mine to a certain extent) of becoming a lawyer, I naturally gravitated to what held my heart the most – fashion. I love it more and more with every passing moment despite how stressful it sometimes proves to be.
I am constantly learning, exploring, discovering, developing and mastering new skills and expertise. I am much more fulfilled now.

3. What has been the biggest hurdle in your career?
As a designer you are faced with hurdles every day but the joy is that with every hurdle, there comes a breakthrough. Trying to work within proper timelines with the production capacity available can be quite challenging, but somehow we always seem to get it done.

4. How do you stay contemporary given the brand’s traditional Ankara roots?
As traditional as our Ankara roots are, so are our contemporary, modern roots. Our brand ethos is embedded in modernity. From day one, our goal was to use the Ankara fabric in the most modern, fashion forward way. It also helps that I design what I love, what I would wear, what I desire my muses to wear, and these usually fall in line with my own personal aesthetic which is clean and effortless. We strive to be known for beautifully crafted storied prints that speak to women around the world; local handcrafted luxury made global.

5. What are your thoughts on cultural appropriation in the fashion industry?
I believe that fashion inspires many things. As long as we are alive, we are inspired by what surrounds us the world over. Cultural appropriations are natural and key to varied and fascinating collections. I just believe that the proper credit should be given at all times.


6. What has been the highlight of you career?
At the completion and showing of every collection, I am on a natural high. That feeling is irreplaceable. To also be recognised and awarded with accolades definitely fuels your passion. Receiving the AFI Best Designer of the Year Award 2011 and being listed in the Women Inspiration and Enterprise 2013 power list in “Fashion and Entertainment” are two of my greatest accomplishments.

7. What garment are you most proud of?
That’s a tough question! I love and am extremely proud of every single collection I show. That said I am more endeared to certain pieces. I adore all cocktail dresses, shift dresses and shirt dresses from every collection.
8. Any celebrities wearing your pieces?
The most recent celebrity to wear one of our pieces was Thandie Newton. We now have a great and evolving relationship with her that hopefully will lead to more successful collaborations.

9. Tell us about your latest collection – anything in particular to watch out for?
The collection was inspired by Lagos city landscapes, in particular Makoko, a popular Lagos city slum, located on water and built on stilts. Through print and design, the collection examines the idea of luxury and power, high and low, rich and poor and mirrors this through a a woman on stilts. This season it’s about power, resilience, and strength. It’s about the Jewel by Lisa woman standing firm albeit with femininity and charm. Thus the clothes represent a darkness that is empowering but play on soft florals in light hues. The silhouettes, bold and exaggerated, reflect this toughness.

10. Any tips for emerging African fashion designers?
Stay true to what you believe in. Study and perfect your craft. Don’t stop learning. Design pieces that speak your passions and narrate your stories. Understand that Africa is a true gold mine – search it thoroughly and you will find many mysteries but don’t forget that your many stories only find success when they are relatable.


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